NOTE: These instructions are for a simple crack system that can be built in a weekend with minimal construction skills. Anyone with basic framing experience will have no problem. There are other, more complex ways to build a crack. This guide is just to get you started. How to Build a Home Crack Training System As a climber from the flatlands of Oklahoma, I had to get creative. I lived hours away from any decent climbing and when my buddies and I planned our first trip to Indian Creek, Utah, we had one small problem—not one of us had much experience climbing cracks or placing pro.

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We were determined to get after it, regardless. Ship world file starbound server. After a trip to the local hardware store, and a few days of painting and construction, we were running laps in the garage beneath my climbing partner Bart’s studio apartment.

The configuration featured two roof cracks: perfect hands and an offwidth. In the weeks leading up to our trip, we spent countless hours jamming the hand crack and flailing in the offwidth. Unlike a home bouldering wall, crack systems take up little space, are easy to build, and cost a fraction of the price. For anyone who loves or wants to get into crack climbing but doesn’t live near any splitters, or wants to become a crack master, here’s a quick guide on how to build a home crack system: DESIGN Before you start building your crack system, here are things to consider: How to Support Your Crack System There are many ways to hang a crack system and you will have to design a way that works best for your situation. The easiest place to install a crack is in an unfinished garage or basement where you can attach to readily exposed beams, or to an existing structure. A tip from the guide says: “Attaching your [system] to an existing structure will eliminate some support braces, and be easier to design and construct, but will lock you into that location.

The existing structure becomes part of your design. You must also ensure that the existing structure is strong enough to support the additional stresses the bouldering wall will add to it.” If you’re renting a place and can’t ding up the walls, or can’t dig your roots in deep to a single location, a freestanding system will do the trick and allow you to move later on. With a little more material, money and effort, you can construct a freestanding crack system.

Remember: Wood and people are heavy. Whatever your design, it needs to be structurally sound and safe.

Have your plans on how you’ll support the crack system dialed BEFORE you begin building. Crack Width What width you want your crack will depend on your hand size and the style of crack climbing you are training for. Generally Fingers are.5”-1.35”, Hands 1.35”-2.5”, Fists 2.5”-3.75”, and Off-width 3.75”-12”. For the first-time crack builder or newer crack climber, start with a parallel hand-size crack or a varied crack that ranges from small to cupped hands.

If you can’t decide or like your options, take the challenge of building an adjustable-width crack system. Need some design inspiration? Watch: Reinforce Sidewalls It doesn’t matter whether you’re building an offwidth or finger crack, the walls of the crack need to be rigid. The slightest amount of bowing in the wood will make jams difficult—near impossible.

Placing blocks of wood every few feet between the crack sidewalls takes the flex out. Block spacers also allow variable widths and flair to be created between the sidewalls. == Parallel, Variable, or Flared Parallel: Parallel-sided cracks are the easiest to build and are great for running laps for endurance training.